Sinks are deceptively complex. The sink itself is the visible part, but the install involves the supply lines (hot and cold), the drain assembly (tailpiece, trap, vent connection), and often accessories like a garbage disposal, soap dispenser, RO faucet, or air gap. Each one is a potential failure point if installed sloppily.
A clean sink install lasts decades without service. A sloppy one starts smelling within months, slows or backs up within years, and develops slow leaks at the trap or supply lines that eventually rot out a cabinet floor.
Common signs you need this service
- Slow or backed-up drain that snaking didn't fix
- Visible corrosion or leak at the drain or trap
- Sink is loose, wobbling, or pulling away from the counter
- Replacing a sink as part of a kitchen or bathroom refresh
- Upgrading from a drop-in to an undermount
- Adding a second sink — prep sink, bar sink, or basement utility
Drop-in vs undermount vs apron-front
Drop-in (top-mount) sinks rest on top of the counter with a rim that sits flush. They're the simplest to install, the easiest to seal, and the most forgiving of imperfect counter cutouts. Undermount sinks attach to the underside of the counter, leaving a clean uninterrupted counter edge that wipes directly into the sink. They require a counter material that can be cut from below (granite, quartz, solid surface — not laminate) and they need to be mechanically supported (clips, brackets, or a wood frame) to handle the weight of water and dishes. Apron-front (farmhouse) sinks have an exposed front face that replaces a section of cabinet. They require custom cabinet modification and the apron face needs to be designed into the cabinet from the start. We install all three; the right one depends on your counter, your cabinet, and your aesthetic.
Drain configuration matters more than you think
The drain side of a sink install is where most problems originate. Old galvanized drain piping under the sink should be replaced with PVC during any sink install — galvanized fails internally with scale long before it leaks visibly. The P-trap must be properly oriented (water seal facing the sink, not the wall). The trap arm (the horizontal section between trap and stack) must have proper slope (1/4 inch per foot) and not exceed the maximum length per OBC. The vent connection must be correct. Almost every 'mystery sewer smell' in a kitchen traces to one of these.
Garbage disposals
Garbage disposals are an optional add — Kanata homes are split roughly 50/50 on having them. If you have one and it's failing, replacement is straightforward and we recommend a quality unit (InSinkErator is the standard). If you've never had one and are considering one, the right time to add it is during a sink replacement when we're already in there. A 1/2 HP unit handles most household waste; 3/4 HP if you cook a lot and want to handle harder scraps.
Adding a prep, bar, or basement utility sink
Adding a second sink — a prep sink in an island, a bar sink in a basement, a utility sink in a laundry — requires routing supply and drain to a new location. The complexity depends entirely on how close existing supply and drain are. We assess on-site and quote, and the price varies from $800 (easy basement utility tied to nearby stack) to $3,500+ (island prep sink with long supply and drain runs across a finished basement ceiling).
Our process
- 1
Site assessment
Measure the existing opening, check the supply and drain locations, confirm the new sink's specs.
- 2
Disconnect and remove
Shut off supplies, disconnect drain, remove old sink — protect the counter and cabinet during removal.
- 3
Install the new sink
Set, seal, secure, and connect supplies and drain. For undermount installs, we coordinate with the counter fabricator if needed.
- 4
Test and clean
Run all supplies, check the drain under pressure, verify no leaks at any joint, clean the workspace.
What's included
- Sink set, sealed, and secured
- All new supply line connections
- New P-trap and drain assembly
- Garbage disposal reinstall if applicable
- Shut-off valve replacement if existing are seized
- Leak test under full pressure
What affects the price
Sink type
Drop-in: simplest. Undermount: requires counter coordination. Apron-front: requires custom cabinet modification.
Existing infrastructure
If the rough-in locations work with the new sink, easy. If not, supply or drain re-routing is added.
Disposal, soap dispenser, RO faucet
Each accessory at the sink adds connection time.
Why Kanata homeowners choose us
- We coordinate with counter fabricators and cabinet makers for complex installs
- We replace seized shut-offs with quarter-turn ball valves as a matter of course
- We always replace the P-trap on a sink install — old traps often look fine but seal poorly
- Clean, sealed installs that don't smell after six months
Kanata kitchens span every era: 1970s laminate counters with drop-in stainless, 1990s post-form counters, mid-2000s granite undermounts, and current quartz with apron-front farmhouse sinks. We work in all of them. The most common upgrade we install today is a single-bowl undermount with a workstation accessory ledge — high-functioning and stays clean.
Materials & brands we trust
- Kraus undermount sinks
Excellent stainless quality at a fair price.
- Blanco granite composite
Premium choice for granite composite kitchen sinks — scratch-resistant, looks new for years.
- Kohler cast iron
Classic enameled cast iron for traditional kitchens and bathrooms.
All installs follow OBC Part 7 for trap configuration, vent connection, and air-gap requirements (for dishwasher and RO connections). Garbage disposal installs verify electrical disconnect access per Ontario Electrical Safety Code.
Drop-in sink swaps are reasonable DIY if you have basic plumbing tools and don't mind working on your back. Undermount, apron-front, and any sink-with-a-disposal install gets harder fast. Drain configuration mistakes are the most common DIY error and the hardest to diagnose later.